In a world saturated with beauty products promising miraculous results, simplifying your skincare routine might seem counterintuitive. Many of us have fallen into the trap of accumulating countless serums, treatments, and gadgets, hoping that more products equate to better skin. However, as many skin experts are now suggesting, sometimes less is truly more. This article explores the benefits of a streamlined skincare regimen, focusing on the essential tools you need to achieve healthy, radiant skin without overwhelming your complexion.
For a long time, I, too, believed in the “more is more” approach. My bathroom shelves resembled a mini beauty store, and my nightly ritual stretched to an elaborate 22 steps. While this extensive routine initially felt like a luxurious act of self-care and a great way to test numerous products, it eventually became burdensome and, surprisingly, detrimental to my skin. I was layering exfoliating toners, oil-reducing serums, acne-focused moisturizers, and retinol, all in an attempt to combat breakouts and oiliness. The result? My skin became reactive, more prone to blemishes, excessively oily, and even sensitive to the touch.
It dawned on me that the constant bombardment of treatments was actually exacerbating the very issues I was trying to resolve. After repeatedly hearing skin experts emphasize the importance of skin barrier repair, I realized I wasn’t giving my skin the gentle care and protection it needed. Instead, I was stressing it with an arsenal of harsh ingredients. This realization led me to embark on a journey of simplification, focusing solely on the essential skincare tools.
A dermatologist’s advice resonated deeply: a basic skincare routine only requires four key elements: cleanser, serum, moisturizer, and SPF. Inspired by the principles of K-beauty, which emphasizes hydration and layering lightweight products, I added a toner or essence to the mix. The results were astonishing. Within just one week, my skin felt noticeably plumper, more elastic, and softer. Since adopting this simplified five-step routine, breakouts have become rare, and my skin’s oil production has significantly balanced out.
But why did simplifying work so well? “By minimizing the use of potentially irritating or drying products, your skin is given the chance to balance its natural oils, which leads to improved hydration and a softer texture,” explains Dr. Divya Shokeen, a board-certified dermatologist based in California. Dr. Brendan Camp, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, concurs, highlighting that “allowing skin sufficient time and space to receive products and recover from their impact” is crucial for healthier skin.
Ahead, we delve into my simplified five-step skincare routine, outlining the essential tools and products that have transformed my skin. If you’re considering streamlining your own regimen, Dr. Shokeen offers this valuable insight: “A streamlined routine encourages better adherence to the most important steps that provide the greatest improvement. This consistency in care leads to better skin health over time.”
Step One: Cleanser
My simplified skincare journey began with adopting a French approach to cleansing – specifically, reducing morning cleansing. Skipping face wash in the morning proved to be beneficial in maintaining my skin’s softness and balance. I discovered that a gentle sweep of micellar water in the morning was sufficient, followed by a thorough double cleanse in the evening to remove makeup and impurities.
Bioderma’s Sensibio H2O Micellar Water efficiently and gently removes dirt, oil, and makeup. It’s become my preferred morning cleanser replacement and excels at removing mascara residue. Simply saturate a cotton pad, swipe across your face, and you’re done – no water needed.
I wasn’t always a fan of cleansing oils until I discovered La Roche-Posay’s Lipikar AP+ Gentle Foaming Cleansing Oil. Its unique oil-meets-gel texture transforms into a delicate foam that cleanses the skin without stripping it. Enriched with prebiotic thermal spring water, niacinamide, and shea butter, it ensures your skin retains its essential moisture.
Step Two: Toner
Toners and essences are indispensable components of Korean skincare routines. Alicia Yoon, a renowned Korean skincare expert and founder of Peach & Lily, explains that toners are designed to rebalance the skin’s pH after cleansing, while essences deliver a surge of hydration. Both enhance the absorption of subsequent skincare products, promoting a plump and radiant complexion. I incorporated a hydrating toner into my routine, using it both morning and night.
Lancôme’s Absolue L’Extrait Elixir Lotion has quickly become a favorite. Infused with Rose damascena water and Absolue Blackbiosis, a micro-ferment derived from the flower, this mist soothes stressed skin and minimizes the appearance of pores.
ILIA’s The Base Face Milk is a standout product. Its lightweight, non-pilling formula is packed with skin-loving ingredients like hyaluronic acid, prickly pear flower extract, and squalane, which enhance skin’s texture and hydration. I especially appreciate it when my skin feels drier and needs an extra layer of moisture before face cream.
Step Three: Morning Serum
Vitamin C is a highly regarded ingredient for brightening skin and providing antioxidant protection – considered the “gold standard” by dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman. Following his advice, I prioritize incorporating Vitamin C into my morning routine. To maintain hydration, I also alternate with a hyaluronic acid serum. Each morning, I apply either one of these potent serums.
For oily skin types like mine, SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF is ideal. It combines L-ascorbic acid, silymarin, ferulic acid, and salicylic acid to control excess oil, refine pores, and defend against free radical damage.
Drunk Elephant’s B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum is appealing due to its blend of hyaluronic acid, known for its exceptional water-retention capabilities, with vitamin B5, glycerin, and ceramides. This combination creates a nourishing, skin barrier-strengthening serum suitable for daily use.
Step Three: Night Serum
In the evening, I switch out my morning serums for nighttime treatments. This is when I incorporate retinol or exfoliating treatments that address specific skin concerns. Applying these treatments at night, sandwiched between toner and moisturizer, has proven most effective.
Thanks to Issa Rae’s recommendation, OleHenriksen’s Dewtopia 20% PHA/AHA Retexturizing Night Serum has become a staple. Its potent blend of AHAs and PHAs effectively minimizes breakouts. I focus application on my forehead and cheeks, where blemishes tend to appear. Remember, you don’t need to apply every product all over your face.
I prefer retinols that are both non-irritating and adaptable to my skin’s needs. Medik8’s Crystal Retinal 3 Serum fits the bill perfectly. Formulated with encapsulated retinaldehyde, alongside glycerin and hyaluronic acid, it effectively reduces fine lines, improves skin tone, and refines texture. This powerful anti-aging ingredient is a valuable addition to any routine.
Step Four: Moisturizer
If I were limited to only one skincare product, it would undoubtedly be face moisturizer. These creams are essential for locking in hydration and, with advanced formulations, offer additional benefits like improving skin texture and reducing wrinkles. My moisturizer is crucial for sealing in the benefits of the toners and serums applied beforehand.
Although I don’t have particularly sensitive skin, I’ve been enjoying Dr. Jart+’s Cicapair Moisturizer. With Centella asiatica and allantoin, it effectively reduces redness and soothes stressed skin. I especially love its jelly-like texture, which imparts a coveted glass-skin finish.
For nighttime, I prefer a richer moisturizer, and Irene Forte’s Hibiscus Night Cream is perfect. This luxurious cream contains peptides, ceramides, shea butter, hyaluronic acid, and omega-rich oils – all working together to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier and ensure smoother, more supple skin by morning.
Step Five: Sunscreen
I’m not overly selective about sunscreen. My criteria are simple: SPF 50 or higher and a creamy, transparent finish that doesn’t leave a white cast. Crucially, since I apply it in the morning, it must absorb quickly and work well under makeup.
Chanel’s UV Essentiel is, in my opinion, the most underrated facial sunscreen. It’s a favorite among my colleagues at Vogue. It has a medium-cream texture that imparts a subtle radiance and is gentle enough for sensitive skin.
Despite trying numerous innovative sunscreens, I consistently return to La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios Light Fluid formula. Its ultra-light, milky texture feels almost like a serum and leaves the skin with a natural matte finish that remains comfortable throughout the day.
